MEET KERRIE
“YAAMA AND HELLO
My name’s Kerrie Saunders, I’m a Gomeroi / Guumbraay woman from Moree, northwest NSW. Born, raised, and still living here in Moree, where the population’s around 7,070. Moree means “big water hole” and “rising sun.” It’s known for its rich black soil plains and the hot water springs that flow continuously – the perfect climate for native grasses and plants to thrive.
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Growing up, I lived on the Mehi Mission, on the bottom end of Moree. I remember playing as a small child in the grasslands, making string, hearing the sounds of wild geese and loud frogs, and taking in the scents of the bush. Times were hard back then; we grew up poor. My parents were controlled under the Act – the white government’s policies that restricted us and many other families, keeping us from certain places.
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But life on the mission was also free and full of adventure. I’d run through the grasslands and explore the swamps, always with my cousins by my side. We’d play and listen to my mother, my great-grandmother, and aunties as they shared their wisdom.
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As I grew older, I learned more about my identity, and I’m deeply proud and honoured to be an Aboriginal woman. My old people taught me the knowledge of native plants around us. Today, I gather and prepare native grass seeds into flour, a nutritious food for our health, keeping the land, animals, and people strong.
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Through my work, I’m committed to sharing the knowledge of traditional foods and Indigenous wellness practices for healthy living.
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Teaching sustainable and restorative practices, empowering Native people with resources to enhance both spiritual and physical well-being through our ancestral ways of knowing.”
yinarrma's story
Yinarrma means “Women of Known Information” In Gomeroi language and offers a range of cultural services and products, including native food tours along the Mehi river as well as the production and sale of native grain flour.
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Kerrie is a well respected and valued member of urban Landcare conducting restoration, regeneration and planting native vegetation along the water ways of Moree.
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Kerrie’s career In the native grains industry has seen her leading projects with Sydney University’s Narrabri campus on Indigenous grasslands, as well as working with various other agricultural bodies, educating the wider community in sustainable farming, environmental issues and cultural connections to country.
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Kerrie is a cultural educator and leader in the Moree and wider community, educating and sharing powerful knowledge and understanding of the cultural connection between country, native foods, and identity. Creating and strengthening knowledge of employment opportunities for people in regional and remote areas.
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“I am grateful to be able to walk in the grasslands, gather native grasses and process the grains the way my ancestors did. This makes me proud to be who I am with the skills and knowledge that I have gained since working on the Indigenous grass land for grain. I want to make young people aware of how important native grains are to culture and identity to be able to genuinely connect back to country. By using this research as a guiding tool, I will be able to teach young people to walk in the footsteps of their ancestors, connect with their food source and be proud of who they are and where they come from”.
The weariness of bread speaks to the labour and love the goes into the creation. It is the story of hands that knead and fold, Of time that stretches and waits. It is the quite resilience of those who toil, the silent strength that sustains us.
Bread of the Journey, bread of life. It is a metaphor for our existence, a symbol of the paths we tread, the choices we make, the sustenance we seek. It is the embodiment of life cycles, of beginnings and endings, of growth and renewal.
In the end, bread is more than just food. It is a reflection of humanity, a testament to our shared experience, a celebration of the simple, profound beauty of life.
Author | Beatriz Esmer
TIMELESS TRADITIONS
EXPLORING THE DEEP-ROOTED PRACTICES OF NATIVE GRAIN CULTIVATION AND ITS ROLE IN NOURISHING ONE OF THE WORLD’S OLDEST LIVING CULTURES
Australian Aboriginal people have a long history of cultivating and managing native grains, a practice that is estimated to go back tens of thousands of years. Unlike modern agriculture, which often involves large-scale, intensive cropping, Aboriginal grain farming focused on the sustainable management of natural grasslands. Native grains, like Mitchell grass (ganalay) and kangaroo grass (native millet), grew in abundance across open grasslands, providing a reliable source of food that could be harvested by hand.
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Traditional Indigienous farming practices included carefully timed harvesting, threshing, grinding, and winnowing processes, which were passed down through generations. These grains were milled into a fine flour, mixed with water to form a dough, and cooked into a type of flatbread. The native grain bread was high in protein and fibre, low-GI, and nutrient-dense, making it an essential part of a healthy and balanced diet for Aboriginal communities.
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The practice of cultivating and harvesting native grains was more than just a source of nutrition; it was integral to cultural identity and environmental stewardship. Knowledge of seasonal cycles, land management, and sustainable farming methods helped Indigenous people maintain ecological balance within their landscapes. This connection between food, Country and community upheld a deeply rooted system of environmental custodianship, sustaining one of the world’s oldest living cultures.
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WHERE ARE WE TODAY
For millennia in Australia, traditional practices like cultivating native grains sustained one of the world’s oldest living cultures. Gomeroi/Gamilaroi and other First Nations people harvested, threshed, and ground native grass seeds into a flour before cooking. However, continued impacts of colonisation through modern farming practices and the subsequent nutrition transition have disrupted knowledge systems, environmental custodianship, and the health and wellbeing of Indigenous communities.
GANALAY (MITCHELL GRASS)
Ganalay grass, also known as Mitchell grass (Astrebla spp.), is a resilient, drought-tolerant native grass that thrives in the arid and semi-arid regions of Australia, especially across the Northern Territory, Queensland, New South Wales, and South Australia. Named after explorer Sir Thomas Mitchell, who documented it during his 1845 expeditions, ganalay grass has been essential to Australia’s landscape and holds deep cultural and ecological significance in Aboriginal knowledge systems.
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1. Ecological and Cultural Role
For thousands of years, ganalay grass has served an essential role in Australian ecosystems and Aboriginal communities. Growing densely across the “Mitchell Grass Downs,” this native grass stabilises the soil, prevents erosion, and provides a critical food source for native wildlife, such as kangaroos, as well as livestock like sheep and cattle. Aboriginal people have historically recognised ganalay grass as a source of nourishment, gathering its seeds to make flour for bush bread, thereby utilising it as a staple in traditional diets.
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2. Resilience to Harsh Conditions
Ganalay grass is remarkably well-suited to Australia’s challenging climate, with its deep root system enabling it to draw water from far underground and remain dormant during dry periods, only reviving when rainfall returns. Its durability makes ganalay one of the few native grasses in Australia’s arid zone that can sustain livestock grazing, a critical advantage in this unforgiving landscape. For countless generations, this grass has supported both Indigenous Australians and, later, European settlers as a dependable resource for grazing and sustenance in arid environments.
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3. Impact of European Colonisation
With European colonisation in the 19th century, ganalay grasslands saw increased grazing pressure. Initially, the grasslands were productive, but heavy grazing, soil compaction, and erosion gradually degraded these ecosystems. Livestock introduced by settlers disrupted the natural cycle of ganalay grass regeneration, and invasive plant species further threatened the health of these native grasslands.
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4. Ganalay Grass in Modern Land Management
Today, there is a growing movement to conserve and restore ganalay grasslands for their ecological and economic importance. Sustainable grazing practices and regenerative agriculture methods aim to reduce the impact of livestock on these landscapes. Traditional Aboriginal land management, such as controlled burning, has also been recognised for its value in maintaining the health of ganalay grass ecosystems, bringing ancient Indigenous knowledge into modern conservation efforts.
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5. Traditional Indigenous Use and Revival of Native Foods
The renewed interest in Aboriginal foodways has brought attention back to native grains like ganalay. For generations, Aboriginal people used ganalay grass seeds as a key food source, grinding them into flour to make bread. Today, this revival of native grains, including ganalay, offers nutritious and climate-resilient alternatives to introduced crops, reconnecting people with ancient Aboriginal traditions while supporting sustainable agriculture and regenerative land use practices.
NATIVE GRAIN HARVESTING
FROM ANCIENT GRAINS TO MODERN PLATES:
EMBRACING THE FLAVOURS AND TRADITIONS OF NATIVE AUSTRALIAN HARVESTING
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Welcome to my world of native grain harvesting, where tradition and nature come together under the open skies of my hometown, Moree. Walking into the native grasslands as the sun rises, I am surrounded by the fresh, earthy scents of grasses, trees, and plants. Here, in this open landscape, lies a diverse array of native grains, each with its own shape, size, and unique way of being harvested. These are grains I know intimately, grains I’ve gathered countless times, with the companionship of the birds and the distant presence of kangaroos—my animal family.
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When I gather ganalay, or native Mitchell grass, I start by positioning my coolamon under the stalks to catch the seeds. With my hands gently moving along the stalks, I encourage the florets to fall into the coolamon. Once I’ve collected enough, I sit by the river to separate the husk from the seeds. Using a grinding stone and a smaller stone in my hand, I carefully grind the ganalay florets to release the seeds.
After separating the seeds, I use a process called winnowing. By skilfully moving the coolamon to catch the wind, I let it blow away the husks, leaving behind only clean seeds. Then, I grind the seeds into flour, adding water to create a dough. With a few minutes under the coals, I have bread—a simple and nourishing product of my work.
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On a larger scale, crop harvesters are now used to gather native grains like ganalay more efficiently. Once harvested, the seeds are separated with modern threshing machines, which range from small household devices to larger shed machines. These advancements allow for clean, wholesome, and naturally organic grains, which can be eaten whole, roasted, or milled into flour rich in protein.
Ganalay flour is not only high in protein but versatile. I’ve used it to make bread, biscuits, cakes, and even pizza bases—a blend of tradition, health, and creativity that brings native Australian flavours to life.
HEALTH BENEFITS
GANALAY GRASS FLOUR, DERIVED FROM THE SEEDS OF THIS RESILIENT NATIVE GRASS, IS INCREASINGLY VALUED FOR ITS NUTRITIONAL BENEFITS AND SUITABILITY IN MODERN DIETS. TRADITIONALLY USED BY ABORIGINAL PEOPLE, THIS FLOUR IS NATURALLY GLUTEN-FREE AND OFFERS A RANGE OF HEALTH ADVANTAGES.
Rich in Protein
Ganalay grass flour is a good source of plant-based protein, supporting muscle growth, tissue repair, and overall energy levels. This makes it an excellent option for people seeking non-meat protein sources and those on plant-based diets.
High in Dietary Fibre
The flour is rich in fibre, which supports healthy digestion, aids in regulating blood sugar levels, and promotes satiety, helping people feel full for longer. This fibre content can contribute to better weight management and support gut health.
Naturally Gluten-Free
Being gluten-free, ganalay grass flour is an ideal alternative for people with gluten sensitivities or coeliac disease. It allows those who must avoid gluten to enjoy nutrient-rich, flour-based foods without adverse reactions.
Low Glycemic Index (GI)
Ganalay flour has a low glycemic index, meaning it breaks down slowly in the body, preventing spikes in blood sugar. This can help maintain energy levels and benefit individuals managing diabetes or those aiming to balance blood sugar levels.
Rich in Essential Minerals
The native grass flour contains a variety of essential minerals like magnesium, iron, and zinc, supporting immune health, energy production, and maintaining healthy bones.
Sustainable and Eco-Friendly
As a native plant that thrives in Australia’s arid climate, ganalay grass is naturally suited to local environments and requires minimal water and no synthetic inputs. This makes it a sustainable and eco-friendly food choice, contributing to environmentally conscious eating practices. Incorporating ganalay grass flour into today’s diet not only connects people with a rich cultural heritage but also supports healthy, sustainable living.